The Resurgence of Embroidery in Contemporary Art: Stitching a New Narrative

For centuries, embroidery was confined to the domestic sphere, often dismissed as craft rather than fine art. However, in recent years, contemporary artists have been reclaiming and redefining this ancient technique, pushing it to the forefront of the global art scene. This resurgence is more than just a trend—it is a movement that challenges outdated hierarchies and highlights the power of textiles as a medium of expression.

Louise Bourgeois, Ode a l’Oubli, 2004, fabric collages, Christie’s

A New Era for Embroidery

Gone are the days when embroidery was viewed solely as a passive, decorative craft. Today, it serves as a powerful vehicle for storytelling, social commentary, and conceptual experimentation. Pioneers like Sheila Hicks and Louise Bourgeois laid the foundation for fiber art’s recognition, proving that textiles could transcend craft to become powerful forms of artistic expression. Their groundbreaking work paved the way for a new generation of artists who continue to push embroidery in innovative directions.

Bundle of joy: Sheila Hicks in her Paris studio (Luz Moreno Pinart/Courtesy the Artist and Alison Jacques Gallery, London)

Textile Art’s Growing Recognition

Institutional validation of embroidery as fine art has played a key role in its revival. Prestigious exhibitions such as Material Worlds and Threads have brought textile-based works into major galleries and museums, featuring artists like Ana Teresa Barboza, Kazuhito Takadoi, and Joana Vasconcelos. The Victoria & Albert Museum has also expanded its textile collection, acquiring embroidered works that reflect both traditional and contemporary practices. This shift signals a growing recognition of fiber art’s historical and cultural significance, as well as its potential for innovation.

© Ana Teresa Barboza, Untitled (?)

Pushing Boundaries: From Tradition to Experimentation

© Kazuhito Takadoi, Kyousei 3- Symbiosis 3

Contemporary embroidery artists are not just preserving tradition—they are reinventing it. Cecilia Charlton integrates embroidery into large-scale abstract compositions, transforming thread into bold, painterly gestures. Elaine Reichek, known for her conceptual approach, reinterprets historical embroidery techniques to engage with themes of feminism, language, and storytelling. Meanwhile, Jordan Nassar blends Palestinian embroidery traditions with modern geometric abstraction, creating intricate, meditative compositions that bridge cultural histories.

Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos takes embroidery and textile art to monumental scales, incorporating crochet, lace, and fabric into large-scale sculptures that challenge traditional notions of femininity and domestic labor. Her work, often infused with humor and social critique, has been exhibited in major institutions worldwide, including the Venice Biennale and the Palace of Versailles.

The London Embroidery Studio blends traditional hand-stitching techniques with advanced digital embroidery, demonstrating how technology can enhance the tactile, labor-intensive nature of textile art. This fusion of old and new highlights embroidery’s adaptability, ensuring its relevance in contemporary art.

Why Embroidery Matters Now

The renewed interest in embroidery aligns with broader cultural shifts toward sustainability, mindfulness, and the appreciation of slow, meditative processes. In an era dominated by digital media and mass production, the time-consuming nature of embroidery stands as a counterpoint to the fast-paced art world. Many artists and collectors are drawn to its tactile quality and personal touch—elements that are often lost in other mediums.

Additionally, embroidery carries deep feminist undertones, as many artists use it to reclaim a historically gendered craft and challenge the division between “fine art” and “women’s work.” The medium’s resurgence is not just aesthetic—it is political, historical, and deeply personal.

A Thread That Connects Past and Future

Embroidery’s revival in contemporary art is a testament to the medium’s versatility and enduring relevance. No longer confined to the margins, it is now at the heart of artistic innovation, embraced by a new generation of artists who continue to challenge the limits of textile-based expression. As the art world reevaluates what constitutes “high” art, embroidery is proving that even the simplest stitch can weave powerful narratives, connecting past traditions with future possibilities.

At Collectif, we celebrate this resurgence, championing artists who use thread as their medium of choice. As embroidery continues to redefine its place in contemporary art, one thing is certain—this is a renaissance worth watching.